‘Thai food to drool, dribble and rave about’

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OK, so I only ate a little lunch and had a cupcake and a cup of coffee at another, but on that account alone, Arcade Food Hall is an outstanding triumph. You’re not supposed to like food halls or food courts because unless they’re on top of a department store in Tokyo, they’re crap. Conflagrations of average food brands (cold sushi on conveyor belts, Lebanese dishes for people more interested in beard sculpting than food) with little pleasure for the senses.

But in the hands of JKS, things can be different. You may not have heard of JKS, and that’s probably the point. But for what they’re doing downstairs at Center Point, I demand you know them. JKS are three siblings: Jyotin, Karam and Sunaina Sethi.

Together they make numbers, vision, food and people and they have created a host of restaurants and pubs in London with no discernible connection except precision and quality. Among them are Lyle’s, a British restaurant in Shoreditch, various Sri Lankan Hoppers, the chic Indian Gymkhana in Mayfair and a Spanish haven near Regent Street called Sabor.

Yes, they really are that smart, and now they’ve opened an atmospheric food hall at the bottom of the reopened Center Point. Although many come from established restaurants, each restaurant here is a new brand – a testing ground for new concepts, perhaps – and each looks horribly appetizing and artfully designed.

There’s also the most wonderful collection of art hanging by the toilets, themed around one of the greatest words in the English language, a word you’ll either love or find just plain dreadful. But the spirit of it warms me more to the JKS cause, whose Thai food at Plaza Khao Gaeng – up a flight of stairs and separate from the main lobby – I’m about to drool, dribble and rave .

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