Meal for two: Rs 2,500 (taxes included)
Address: N-6, 1st floor, GK-1
In the recent Doctor Strange movie, the main character is advised to forget everything he thinks he knows before starting his training. We recommend doing the same with Thai cuisine before having a meal at Thai House by Kylin. Forget the curries and technicolor soups that make your lips pucker, forget the sickening heat of honey-chili sauces and anonymous chicken pieces stuck on a skewer and sold as satay. Full Disclosure: We love all that fire, smoke, and mirrors, but the food at Thai House is a revelation. The right kind.
Spread over two poster pages, the menu is a wide selection of dishes that you are more likely to find in a Thai home than in a Thai restaurant.
The Tom Yums and Khas, the assorted curries and the satay are all there, but they are only accessories, the real bonus being in the rest of the dishes, divided into sections such as salads, grills and woks.
We start our meal with grilled giant butterfly prawns, a spicy grilled beef tenderloin salad and rustic fish parcels. The shrimp float first, split in the middle, the soft, lightly charred flesh infused with the woody smell of the grill and smoking lightly as we rip it off its shell. Accompanied by nam phrik (the traditional sauces that accompany Thai cuisine), we could eat endlessly just the shrimp but the packages of fish quickly break our reverie. Steamed in banana leaves and marinated in red curry paste, the basa fillets are fresh and tender on the palate.
Next comes the salad, with chewy strips of filet mignon scattered throughout a forest of wintery greens, fresh scallions, and other roots – tied with a super tangy marinade that awakens your taste buds with a kick. That’s just as good, given that the next dish is the Thai staple of crab cakes, which comes with a significant amount of crab meat stuffed into its real shell, all then coated and fried.
Dip in the sauce of your choice and repeat ad finitum. Also in the mix is Morning Glory (known locally as nale ka patta, given its preferred growing location) sautéed with chilli and garlic, the tannic flavor of the leaves tempered by the heat of the chili peppers.
For our main courses we meet other shrimp, this time in an aromatic sauce made with red curry, except for the sautéed ground chicken and crispy fried catfish, accompanied by steamed rice. True to its name, as soon as the terracotta pot it’s served in is opened, the aromatic shrimp curry fills the air with what we’d like to imagine smelling like Thai cuisine. The dish certainly hits all the right notes of sweet, bittersweet, spicy and bitter, a balance of flavors that is ideal in Thai cuisine. Meanwhile, the ground chicken tastes exactly the same as the anda bhujia you get at home, except it’s made with pieces of chicken instead of scrambled eggs.
Dessert includes the only fusion item on the menu: homemade chocolate and spicy chili ice cream, like everything else served in the restaurant. When you first take a bite, it feels like a nice but generic ice cream, but it slips down your throat like a suddenly awakened dragon, diffusing heat and fire in its wake. We couldn’t have asked for a better ending.